“There’s a whole invisible world that you’re working with, that you’re trying not to have work against you. A lot of things can go wrong. There’s a lot of what feels like magic involved – things you never really know until you see the results.” This is not the tagline for the next best-selling sci-fi novel. This is daily life for Troy Plemmons, the farmer behind Harvest Moon Mushrooms.

Mushrooms live in that liminal space between science and magic. Their appearance can be alien, their flavors unexpected, their speed of growth astounding. Yet they need to be cared for in a lab-like space, with sterile equipment and strict protocols.  Mycelium, the root like structure that allows mushrooms to fruit and grow, is very sensitive to microscopic particles in the air. These are often things that humans can’t see, like bacteria, yeast, or mold. For those farmers who grow their own mushrooms, this invisible element can be damning. “I have experienced a lot of devastation and failures. They’re costly, the morale drops quickly, we recover. There is a lot out of my control. I’m just trying to be a shepherd for the mycelium.”
 

This might make you think that mushrooms aren’t worth the investment, but as Troy can tell you, when an interest in mushrooms strikes, it runs deep. “I’ve been fascinated with mushrooms since I was pretty young. I grew up in the PNW and I would get excited about them, when I saw them on hikes. I learned how to do a spore print, I joined online forums, I learned a lot through reading.” Troy then spent his early adulthood traveling and exploring, all while feeling that pull back to the pacific northwest, to the mushrooms. He made the choice to save his money, work hard, and invest in his passion. He spent a summer fishing Alaska, with every thought on his future goal. When he came back to Portland, it all fell into place. “Coming back home - revisiting my roots, revisiting the place where my interest in mushrooms was created. I knew it was possible to do here. I had the resources, the outlets, the weather was right. I got lucky. Someone was selling their mushroom business, and I made them an offer of all the money I had. They took it.”

So Harvest Moon Mushrooms was spored. Troy started with lion’s mane mushrooms, growing them in a small space, in his basement. He has since graduated to a full detached greenhouse, temperature controlled and hyper-efficient.  “Growing in an urban environment, I don’t have a lot of space for byproducts or waste. When I’m done with it, what do I do with it? It’s been interesting finding other farmers who utilize it – can use it in their soil. I spend a lot of time thinking how I can be more efficient.”

Combatting invisible elements, finessing sterile techniques, managing waste products, all this is a part of being a mushroom farmer. The joy of the work come from the mushrooms themselves. “Oyster mushrooms are my favorite because they’re so versatile. You can use them in any meal. Their flavor and texture are incredible.” This where his excitement becomes evident. “They have some novel compounds in them – they help with immunity, help people fight off different viruses and diseases. I love that about oyster mushrooms. They’re so delicious and so healthy at the same time.”

Harvest Moon Mushrooms grows a wide variety of mushrooms on their urban Portland farm. Troy has numerous restaurants as clients, and they often request specific types of mushrooms to complement their existing menus. Working with chefs allows Troy to cultivate some very specific varieties of mushroom, things that can otherwise be hard to find. That, in itself, is rewarding for him. He wants to bring these unique varieties to the public at large. “I’d love to have a facility that’s made for producing super high quality, top shelf, mushrooms. Hone our skills, our techniques, try and produce a lot of gourmet mushrooms for the larger population. I want to see local mushrooms in grocery stores. A lot of mushrooms are brought in from out of country. It would be awesome if we could supply our own community.”

And community is what it all comes back to for Troy. Communities of farmers, of friends, of foodies, of farmers’ market shoppers. “I grew up in Garden Home, very close to Hillsdale. My roots are in SW Portland. When I visit Hillsdale, that’s my stomping ground. I used to just daydream about getting into this year-round market where I’m from. I thought that would be coming full circle.” Now that he’s here, he couldn’t be more thrilled to be spending Sundays with our market. “It’s like a dream come true.”